---
description: Named-storm deductibles run 2–10% of your dwelling coverage. Sometimes filing costs more than the repair. How to tell before you call.
title: Hurricane roof damage Houston
image: https://www.myroofimprovement.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/11/cropped-JCC-Roofing-Company-in-Houston-Main-New-Logo-1.webp
---
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Answered 24/7 · Greater Houston · Hurricane season June 1 – November 30
# Hurricane Roof Damage Repair in Greater Houston
Before anything else: **not every leak after a hurricane should become a claim.** Named-storm deductibles run from 2% to 10% of your dwelling coverage, and on many houses that is more than the repair costs.
This page covers how to work out whether filing makes sense anywhere in Greater Houston, what a tarp actually buys you, and why the leak you are looking at may not be a roof problem at all.
[(713) 766-3464713-ROOFING · answered 24/7](tel:+17137663464) [Should you file? ↓](#should-i-file)
**Water coming in right now?** Say so when you call, and which room. Active intrusion is prioritized over everything else — [emergency response](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/emergency-roof-repair-houston/).
The number that decides everything
## Your Hurricane Deductible Is Not the One You Remember
Most Texas policies carry **three separate deductibles**. The one people remember — often 1% or a flat $500 — is for *all other perils*: theft, fire, a burst pipe. **It does not apply to a named storm.**
All other perils
1% or $500
Theft, fire, burst pipes. Not your hurricane deductible.
Wind and hail
\~2%
Applies to most non-named storm damage.
Hurricane / named storm
2% – 10%
Commonly 2%, but 5% and 10% are seen on Gulf Coast policies.
**And the percentage is of your dwelling coverage, not the claim.** On a home insured for $400,000, a 5% named-storm deductible is **$20,000** — whether the roof damage is $8,000 or $60,000.
**Find your Coverage A figure on the declarations page and do the arithmetic now**, before a storm rather than after. It changes what you should do when one arrives.
**Manufacturers make a purpose-built ridge cap shingle.** It is thicker, it is designed to bend over the ridge without cracking, and it is rated to the same wind speed as the roof beneath it.
It also costs more. So a great many roofers do something else: they take ordinary **3-tab shingles, cut them into three pieces, and use those as ridge cap**.
**A 3-tab shingle is rated 60 to 70 mph.** The laminated architectural shingles covering the rest of that roof are rated **110 to 130**. So the ridge — the highest point, the most exposed part of the whole roof, the part the wind hits first and hardest — is running at half the rating of everything around it.
And it is not only the rating. A cut 3-tab is thinner, so it cracks where it bends over the ridge. It has a smaller nailing area. And its sealant strip was never designed to hold on a fold.
**That is why so many wind claims start at the ridge.** The cap goes first, which exposes the top course of the field shingles, and from there the roof unzips downward.
What we do
### Manufacturer ridge cap, always
We fit the ridge cap the manufacturer designed for the shingle we are installing. Same brand, same system, same wind rating as the roof beneath it.
On a GAF system it is also **required** — ridge cap shingles are one of the qualifying accessories for the **WindProven™ warranty with no maximum wind speed limitation**. Cut 3-tab does not qualify.
It costs us more per roof. It is not negotiable, and it is not something you should have to ask for.
![Missing ridge cap on a Houston roof where cut 3-tab shingles were used as ridge cap on a laminated architectural shingle roof]()
*What we find Ridge cap gone. Cut 3-tab, rated 60 to 70 mph, on a roof rated 110 to 130. The wind took the weakest part of the system first.*
![Correctly installed manufacturer ridge cap shingles on a roof in Katy, Texas]()
*How it should look Purpose-built manufacturer ridge cap, matched to the shingle system and rated to the same wind speed as the roof beneath it.*
The starter strip runs along the eaves and rakes, beneath the first visible course. It does two jobs: it gives the first row of shingles something to **seal against**, and it puts a continuous sealed edge where wind gets its strongest grip on a roof.
**Here is where most roofers fail: they nail it too high.**
A starter strip nailed above its designated nailing zone leaves the bottom edge held by adhesive alone. Wind finds that edge, lifts it, and once the eave course lifts the rest of the slope follows. **It is the single most common cause of wind damage we find on roofs less than ten years old.**
The second failure is **staggering**. The seams in the starter must not line up with the seams in the first course above it. Where they do, there is a direct path from the surface to the deck — and the roof leaks *through* the starter, at the eave, which is the hardest place to diagnose because the water appears at the wall.
**It is also a warranty requirement.** GAF starter strips are one of the qualifying accessories for the **WindProven™ warranty with no maximum wind speed limitation**. Cut field shingles used as starter, or starter nailed outside its zone, do not qualify.
![GAF Pro-Start starter strip correctly installed along the eave, with nails placed within the designated nailing zone]()
*Correct installation GAF Pro-Start starter strip, nailed within the designated zone. Once the first course goes on, none of this is visible again — which is exactly why it gets skipped.*
**You cannot inspect this after the fact, so it has to be right the first time.** Ask what starter product is being used, ask whether it is a named manufacturer product rather than cut shingles, and ask for it as a line item on the estimate.
Ask any roofer quoting you
1. **“What are you using for starter strip?”** A named manufacturer product, not cut field shingles. Ask where the nails go.
2. **“What are you using for ridge cap?”** The answer should be a named manufacturer product, not “we’ll cut some shingles”.
3. **“What is it rated to?”** It should match the field shingles. If they do not know, that is an answer too.
4. **“Is it on the estimate as a line item?”** Ridge cap should appear by name and quantity, not be absorbed into “materials”.
You can also check your existing roof from the ground with binoculars. Manufacturer ridge cap has a consistent, deliberate profile. Cut 3-tab looks like flat shingle folded over a line — and once you have seen the difference you cannot unsee it.
01
### Broken seals
The most common and the hardest to see. Wind lifts a shingle, breaks the adhesive strip bonding it to the course below, and drops it flat again.
**Invisible from the ground.** The shingle is lying exactly where it was — it is just no longer attached.
02
### Creasing
A shingle folded back by wind and dropped down leaves a crease across its width. The mat is fractured along that line even though nothing is missing.
Creasing runs in a **directional pattern** — all facing the same way, on the slopes that took the wind. That pattern is what separates it from wear.
03
### Lifted edges and corners
Rakes, eaves and the courses beside a valley take the most uplift. Edges that have started to curl away are where the next storm gets its grip.
Often visible with binoculars from the ground if you look along the roof line rather than at it.
04
### Missing shingles
The only kind anyone notices, and usually the last stage rather than the first. Shingles do not blow off roofs where every seal is intact.
**If shingles are missing, assume the seals are broken across a much wider area** than the gap you can see.
![Severe wind damage to a six-year-old 3-tab shingle roof in the Houston area]()
*A **six-year-old 3-tab roof**, severely damaged by wind. Not worn out. Not neglected. Just rated to 60–70 mph on a Gulf Coast roof.*
**Age was not the problem here.** A six-year-old roof should have decades left. What failed was the specification — a shingle rated below what Houston weather routinely produces, on a house that needed more.
![Wind damage to a 3-tab shingle roof carrying a 25-year manufacturer warranty]()
*3-tab · 25-year warranty A long material warranty does not raise the wind rating. These shingles were covered for 25 years and rated for 60–70 mph.*
![Wind damage to a laminated architectural shingle roof with a 30-year warranty]()
*Laminated · 30-year warranty Architectural shingles are rated far higher, but nothing is immune. Installation and fastening decide how much of that rating you actually get.*
![Missing laminated architectural shingles after a wind event in Houston]()
*Laminated · 30-year warranty Once shingles start leaving, each gap exposes the course below it. This is what “unzipping” looks like in practice.*
The distinction worth understanding
**A material warranty and a wind rating are different things.** A 25 or 30-year warranty covers manufacturing defects. It says nothing about how much wind the shingle will survive.
When someone quotes you “a 30-year shingle”, ask what it is rated to in mph. That is the number that matters on the Gulf Coast, and it is the one nobody leads with.
The wind-specific claim problem
## Your Roof May Be Covered While Your Ceiling Is Not
Wind is a covered peril on most policies, so damage to the roof itself is often paid for. **Interior damage is decided separately, and by a different test.**
Storm-created opening
The storm must have **physically opened the roof** — shingles removed, the surface breached. Water then enters through that opening.
**Texas windstorm policies are written this way**, and so are most large carriers’ forms. Find that sentence in your own policy.
Wind-driven rain
Wind forces water **under shingles that are still in place**. Nothing is missing. From the ground the roof looks untouched.
Policies recognizing this cover it. Policies requiring an opening decline it.
**This is exactly where wind damage falls foul of policy language.** The broken seals that let water in are invisible, the shingles are all present, and the adjuster finds no opening. [The exclusions worth checking before you file](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/roof-insurance-claims/)
How do I know if wind damaged my roof if nothing is missing?
You often cannot from the ground, which is the problem. The most common wind damage is a **broken seal** — the shingle is lying exactly where it was, it is just no longer bonded to the course below. Look for **creasing in a directional pattern**, lifted edges along rakes and eaves, and granules collecting at the downspouts. If a storm was strong enough to take shingles off a neighbor’s roof, yours deserves a look.
What wind speed damages a roof?
It depends entirely on what is on it. **3-tab shingles are rated 60 to 70 mph** — below what Houston produces routinely. **Architectural shingles are rated 110 to 130.** GAF’s **WindProven™ warranty carries no maximum wind speed limitation** when Timberline shingles with LayerLock are installed with the qualifying accessories.
Why do wind claims so often start at the ridge?
Because on a great many roofs **the ridge cap is the weakest part of the system**. Purpose-built ridge cap costs more, so many roofers cut ordinary 3-tab shingles into pieces and use those instead — putting a **60 mph component at the highest, most exposed point of a roof rated 130**. The cap goes first, which exposes the top course of field shingles, and the roof unzips from there. Cut 3-tab ridge cap also **disqualifies a GAF WindProven™ warranty**, which requires manufacturer ridge cap as a qualifying accessory.
Does a 30-year shingle mean it survives high wind?
**No, and this catches people out.** A material warranty covers manufacturing defects. It says nothing about wind resistance. A 3-tab shingle can carry a 25-year warranty and still be rated to only 60 to 70 mph. **Ask what it is rated to in mph** — that is the number that matters on the Gulf Coast.
Will insurance cover wind damage to my roof?
Wind is a covered peril on most policies, so damage to the roof itself often is. **Interior damage is a separate question** and depends on how the water got in — most policies, Texas windstorm forms among them, pay for interior damage only where there was a **storm-created opening**. How Texas claims work
How soon should I get the roof looked at after a windstorm?
Promptly, for two reasons. Your policy requires **prompt notice** once you know there is damage — a duty separate from the filing deadline. And broken seals get worse with every subsequent wind, so what is a repair this month can be a replacement by the next storm season.
Where we inspect
### Wind Damage Roof Repair Across Greater Houston
A line of wind does not respect city limits. Two offices — Tomball and Spring Branch — cover the metro, and the inspection is free wherever you are in it.
- [Katy](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/katy/)
- [Cypress](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/cypress/)
- [Spring](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/spring/)
- [The Woodlands](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/the-woodlands/)
- [Tomball](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/tomball/)
- [Klein](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/klein/)
- [Magnolia](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/magnolia/)
- [Conroe](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/conroe/)
- [Sugar Land](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/sugar-land/)
- [Pearland](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/pearland/)
- [Bellaire](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/bellaire/)
- [Spring Branch](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/spring-branch/)
Not on the list? The [full service area](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/service-areas/) covers most of Greater Houston. Call and we will tell you straight away.
### Free wind damage inspection
Seals tested, ridge cap assessed, every slope photographed, photographs of everything we find, yours to keep — **including when the finding is that your roof is fine.**
And if we find cut 3-tab on your ridge, we will show you and tell you what it means — whether or not you ever hire us.
[(713) 766-3464713-ROOFING · north & northwest](tel:+17137663464) [(281) 498-7663281-498-ROOF · Houston & west](tel:+12814987663)
[All storm damage](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/houston-roof-damage-repair-insurance-claims/) · [Hail damage](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/hail-damage-houston/) · [How Texas claims work](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/roof-insurance-claims/) · [Emergency repair](https://www.myroofimprovement.com/emergency-roof-repair-houston/)
**JC&C Roofing Company** · 1431 Graham Dr #266, Tomball, TX 77375 · 1220 Blalock Rd #345, Houston, TX 77055 · [hello@jccroofing.com](mailto:hello@jccroofing.com)
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